Sicily: Tonnara di Scopello Sicily and Sardegna have a long tradition of mattanza, a ritual that takes place every May and June, where they catch the giant tuna that swim past the coasts. Today, because of over-fishing, only a few mattanza remain, off Sicily’s Egadi … [Read more...]
Gattopardesco: Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s villa in Palermo
I am in Palermo, and had a quintessentially Palermo experience today: I went to visit Gioacchino Lanza Tomasi di Lampedusa, who is the adopted son of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa (1896-1957), who wrote The Leopard (“Gattopardo”), published posthumously in 1958. The book, one of … [Read more...]
Ciao, Grecia Salentina
Today I returned to Brindisi after a week in Grecia Salentina, which is the Greek-influenced part of Puglia, just south of Lecce. It was an amazing week, not only to dip in to their music, myth, and history for an article (upcoming in Afar, www.afar.com), but to become acquainted … [Read more...]
Night of the Tarantula in Puglia
PUGLIA—Scorrano I am in Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot, a hot, arid place with crumbling stone walls, olive trees, cactus, and Baroque limestone buildings. The people in Puglia are friendly, open, and don’t have the sense of furbezza—distrust, wheeler-dealer scamming--that is … [Read more...]
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